If you have 3/4 inch T&G that does not qualify for warranty. BTW - that isn't plywood on top of your floor - it's oriented strand board (OSB). When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions. [quote=Squindle]18x16 gable roof over my deck with exposed rafters and no ceiling. We specialize in older homes and historic restorations. As reported in the link provided by worthy, OSB is subject to edge swelling, which can only get worse with age and exposure to moisture. I owned a Toronto house built in 1919 that had fir floors on the second floor, fir treads on the stairs and oak floors on the main floor. SW white heron, what does it look like in your space. Generally speaking you do not need to overlay, especially if you have T&G. For 5/8" or thicker roof sheathing on 16" o.c. In fact, T&G boards are most frequently used when the sheathing is visible from the inside such as in cathedral ceilings or in some cabin-style homes, especially if the span of the rafters is greater than 2 feet. We used 3/4" CDX plywood on 24" centers since we did not have to match the thickness as we added roofing. The material is soft and dense which means it doesn't stand on its own as a pitched roof sheathing. NC, thick. Because there is no underlayment I think 1/4" too weak and 3/4" too expensive. Non t&G that is spaced over 1/4 inch, or are out of plane, I would overlay. PO Box 603625, Ive seen camps, cottages, & shacks built with 1x 6 rafters, 1 x 6 ridge pole, & 1 x 6 tongue groove decking last a hundred years spanned 18 to 20, 22! The test for delamination of plywood is to boil a 6 x 6 inch piece in water (I could be wrong on the size) for 4 days. Obviously, the surface material of a roof is very important. My # 1 issue - We want the visual gap shown with # 1 but would like to know if we should have a gap between the actual panels at # 2 to allow for wood movement. I would orient the tongue upwards. Both OSB and plywood should be installed with the long edge perpendicular to the trusses/rafters. Reason? 18x16 gable roof over my deck with exposed rafters and no ceiling. 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That effectively prevented any moisture problems until the structure could be dried in(walls/roof). Then there are climate conditions. The reason to use OSB would be cost about $3 less per sheet than plywood but the reason to avoid it would be that OSB is more susceptible to damage from moisture than plywood. The main reason to use tongue-and-groove boards these days is appearance from beneath the roof. I will be doing most of the work myself with guidance from an experienced carpenter friend who suggested the ply - just looking for another opinion. Green cabinets look blue. If you break the plywood on rafters and use 10d or 12d nails, shooting the plywood through the t&g into the rafters it will give you an incredibly strong smooth roof deck for another 60+ years as well as making your new roof last longer. Rigid foam is very similar to wood fiberboard in application. Most of which came from water/moisture exposure. Thanks all, it's always good to have some reassurance on these projects! What Are Millennials Looking for When Purchasing a Home? That is why techniques to prevent moisture/water intrusion are as important as the type of material chosen. Plywood did not, and does not cause ice dams. WARNING:Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov, Copyright 2022 Colonial Materials - All Rights Reserved I have never used OSB on roofs or as subfloor for the reasons detailed by building scientist Paul Fissette here. READ THE RULES BEFORE POSTING. Get details and do not hire the cheap guy! I think the roof can hold the weight ok, at one time it had 2 layers of shingles which would have been much heavier than this. My # 2 issue - Any advice for how large to cut these rabbets and how much overlap? Anyway, thanks for the responses! How to fix it? What is it? Hire a quality flooring contractor that has good reviews, and make sure to ask them specific questions like you are doing here. Your roofer is giving you sound advice and provided he re-decks with an eye toward the weather and common sense as any reputable installer would, you don't need to worry about weird stuff getting trapped or growing between the layers. Plywood is not an actual 3/4"(or 1/2", 5/8", etc.) That material is a nominal 2, 3 or 4 inches thick spanning 6 to 16+ feet which is something no sheathing can do so I have to confess I don't understand your questions. I have a theory about warranties: I wanted to applaud wrongdave's posts and work that he linked to. There were gaps of up to 2" between the old boards. Everyone else thought it was funny. This sub is for questions, interesting pics or videos and stories about roofing. Ive decided to use 4x6 rafters 4 OC, 2x6 T&G sheathing, and felt and shingles directly over the T&G. How Much Square Footage Do I Need for a New Home? lol. concrete? 28260-3625 I have been fighting the warranty war since I have been involved with roofing. painful reroof came up looking half decent. Generally Speaking, Once the shingles seal together, you can depend on the well nailed shingles to keep the whole array secure in high winds. What Comes Next? Agreed - Plywood doesn't cause ice dams. None of these options should be used for the design of a roof in any climate so clips are essentially optional panel spacers. I always put the toung down, no special reason just the way i've always done it. As for normal floor, wall and roof sheathing either will work if properly chosen. Assuming no rot, would it be advisable to still put plywood on top in order to assure that the new shingles nail securely and not potentially on a joint in the tongue in groove? Wood fiberboard is most commonly used in wall sheathing because it provides insulating and soundproofing properties. Ah - well this raises some other concerns. Roof sheathing provides an area where the surface material can be attached, but it also helps keep the trusses and/or rafters properly spaced. I have never had a concrete slab foundation before so have no idea of what issues these may have. Any professional advice is welcome. As long as you are using a durable, substantial 4 x 8-foot sheet of building material, the trusses should have something to keep them together and the roofing material something to fasten to. Just make sure if using OSB you got a small gap for expansion. Another poster (ppf) posted the picture below. 4 Advantages of L-Shaped House Plans and How They Solve Common Problems, Building on Slab vs. Ive never seen a 1x6 rafter before. Footnote: The lead image of this article is courtesy of Lowes, where you can buy roof sheathing. then the gaps in the flooring are a whole 'nother potential can of worms. That means the boards will be replaced as originally installed, regardless of butt spacing or T&G type. Oh ya Roof Lover. I used to hand nail T & G 1 x 6 sub-flooring diagonally on to floor joists when I was a kid. After having another roofer propose basically the same thing, only 50% higher & with a used car salesman's pressure, we signed with the original roofer, who I feel will do a good job for us. Is it normal to leave this without shingles? Looking for advice regarding my particular situation. I want to install directly on studs as cheaply as possible and am thinking of 1/2" plywood cut into 8" strips at store. Small Lots Provide Opportunities for Amazing Home Designs, 10 Reasons Why Your Home Needs a Flex Room, Home Building Trends: A Report from the 2022 International Builders Show. I'm in the process of buying a 1953 cape that has very old worn asphalt shingles in need of replacing. No heat, no a/c. One of the main problems in using gypsum board as a dedicated roof sheathing is the fact that it's not designed to hold fasteners. 5) How can I go about making sure that it is installed correctly? For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Also, what kind of wood is this? A lot of these questions I don't understand, but this one by chance I did. I'd venture to say not many folks here have ever worked on a plank sheathed roof. As a rule, solid wood boards were 3/4" thick. | Privacy Policy Just bought a 16' x 20' cottage directly on a tidal river bank. As camouflage for damaged surfaces or simply for their rich texture and beauty, tongue and groove ceilings create high impact, Of course you've heard of it, but you might not know all the uses and benefits of this workhorse building material, Trendproof your interior with this sensible guide to using this utilitarian material indoors, Yup, you heard right. Bungalow vs. Cottage: Whats the Difference & Is One Better Than the Other? Press J to jump to the feed. With older homes that used non T&G "Roofers" you might need to. Thats an expensive deck and lot of work remember grade 2 lumber is not that stright, 4 oc is all you wanna go, it will work, but there is going to be issues along the way. Those moisture problems continued with the trusses and roof sheathing, since they sometimes got rained on multiple times. Basement? And OSB was cheaper than plywood. JLC Online: Best practices for professional builders and remodelers. I have seen a number of customer complaints for Coretec, which the flooring stores have been telling me is top of the line! Ventilation, for example, is needed so that the sheathing doesn't warp or swell under humid conditions. I believe the greater use of OSB these days is often due to cost and availability. I looked back at your original posts and noticed that you referred to "T&G decking". Thanks all - very useful information - will be pack lots when I finally close on the house! Another difference is material thickness. I was engaged in a discussion on another site where someone brought up a question regarding the origins of LDS (Church of the Later Day Saints). I plan to strip down to the stud for full inspection and to make any repairs, upgrade electrical, etc. OSB is virtually never seen on high-end homes in our greater metropolitan area except as sheathing. 4) I have pets (cats) - is it likely to get scratched up significantly? Over the years things have shifted & shrunk, & now I have gaps well over the 1/4" recommended maximum. Sheathing is installed over multiple trusses/rafters, so it essentially turns them into one cohesive unit instead of individual structural members. You might want to increase the number of nails per shingle at the rakes, eaves and ridge to assure good holding power. Crawl Space vs. With advanced resin technology and high wood density, AdvanTech sheathing panels stand strong on the job and for years to come. OSB(not chipboard or MDF) is made with pieces of wood in layers and bonded together rather than glue. But it's nice to know that if you do have special needs such as an exposed interior ceiling there are options that can accommodate you. | California's Proposition 65 It's difficult to tell from the photo, but if I were to take a wild guess, I'd suggest fir, which isn't actually a "hardwood" with a Janka score of 660, but was extremely popular as a subfloor wood, second floor wood and, I suspect, a cheaper alternative to oak, maple or walnut in the late 19th and early 20th century. In my experience, the need for tongue and groove or edge clips is determined by the thickness of the roof sheathing and the spacing of the rafters. Coupled with OSB's weakness to moisture resistance (especially at the edges), some people just feel safer with plywood and are willing to pay extra. My # 3 issue - Any advice for anything else I am not think of? A panel of OSB is typically heavier than plywood, yet not as stiff, so it could be prone to some sagging between trusses/rafters, especially if they are set 2 feet on-center. We had to replace the treads on the stairs because they were so worn, but the second floor was still in reasonable shape. The T&G or clips installation are more a requirement for local codes and the types of roofing to be installed. Once that moisture is gone, both types can return to near original dimensions and strength.